We wake up into a clean sky kind of day. After a relaxed breakfast our walk to refugio Vegarredonda, the entrace to the heart of the massive, can start.

First, we cross a bridge over a small river, which stops in several small ponds formed in a solid rock. With the clear water and curvy beech and oak trees all around it really invites to have a dip. As we learn later, it actually WAS a favourite bathing spot for Marquess Pedro Pidal, who popularized Picos de Europa as a treasure of nature. Thanks to him, Picos de Europa became the first natural park in Spain.

The track zigzags uphill to bring us to an impressive tree followed by a slightly sloping meadow with a huge boulder in the middle.

Vega de la Piedra is the first sheperd settlement on our way. Initially, our eyes are attracted by two cute calfs resting in the shade of the boulder. Later we see the older stock is calmly chewing on the fresh grass nearby too.

Eventually we discover a couple of stone-build houses with a flat roofs hugging the ridge. The roof-tiles are weighted down with heavy stones indicating how severe the weather can become up here. While all houses are quite small and rudimentary, they look very well looked after. All the doors are solid and locked, there are no broken roofs. One even has a solar panel on the side.

While we explore the settlement, big dog approaches us silently. Intitially it looks scary, bloodshot eyes, big paws, black fur; probably a mastif. It neither barks, nor bites; on second look doesn’t look dangerous, but meek. It simply joins us and starts to follow, wherever we go. Maybe all it needs is a company.

When I look at it, its super skinny under the deceptively big fur. Concerned that once we feed it, it will follow us everywhere, we decide to stay cold-hearted. No cuddling, no feeding. As it came down with a group of hikers, and now it joined us on a way up we call it a shuttle dog. Now only narrow hiking trail goes up from the Vega de la Piedra. It is steep for a bit and then disappears into shallow grassy valley. Here the shuttle dog lifts its tail proudly and gallops away from us. Did it need us to pass safely around the herds of cows? Was it unsure we would find the way? God knows.

Nice three meter high boulder with prominent crack in the middle stands in the middle of the meadow. We climb it easily from different sides. Then we can follow up steeper section of the path, which brings into view Rondiella. Another shepherds settlement; houses not so well kept, but even better views.

Another ascent brings us to an idyllic place. Couple of flat rocks warmed up by sun are just inviting to lie on. Spring of water is nearby to refill bottles (we filter to be on the safe side). Needing no more suggestions we stop to drink, eat and dry out the tent still wet from the todays’ night rain. With dried mango in our bellies, sun going full power, cows and calfs slowly promenading around we somehow fall asleep. What a refreshing nap.

From here it is still quite a walk to a grassy saddle from where we see for the first time the main massive dominated by Porru Bolu. When we slide our eyes down from the naked vertical walls of the peaks through the steep scree and grass slopes we see it. Roof of refugio Vegarredonda is shining in the middle of flat patch of smaragd coloured grass.

It doesn’t take long to get down there. With good source of potable water and snacks/food available it is a good to place to stop. However the amount of cow and horseshit all around and ban on camping prompts us to start climbing again.

According to my map, there should be at least two sources of water after we cross the first ridge to the right. Out of a blue shuttle dog rejoins us on our way. Initially, it is more of an annoyance then anything else on this narrow path cut into the side of limestone hill, but then we find our rhythm and walk all three together steadily. We crest the first ridge and somehow flat ground opens up. It is here where the water should be, but is nowhere to be seen. We carry on. When we find the spring, is pretty disappointing. Good for the cows and bulls, but not for us (of course shuttle dog drinks thirstily). Neither does it look like a good place to camp.

With a bit of cursing under breath we traverse the slope and crest another ridge. Beautiful views open, but no water here either. Shuttle dog waves us goodby with its tail and leaves us alone. But we are well commited now, there should be another refugio further on. And where is a refugio, there must be some water, right?

Some ten more minutes on and we are in the final, steep grassy stretch to the refugio. Solid concrete hut with metal beds in the middle of a beautiful meadow full of pink flowers, surrounded by mountains. What more can you ask for?

Maybe some rest. I am quite tired and don’t want to move on, but Zuzka insists there should be a mirador (viewpoint) furhter on.

When we get there, it is a little unasuming saddle between the rocks. When we look on the opposite side we expect to see a path down, or a wall, but there is nothing to be seen. White pillows of clouds are washing at our feet. And above those fluffy clouds grey walls of rock rise on the opposite side of the valley. Incredible, never seen something like this.

I am quite tired so I fall asleep while Zuzka explores the surrounding. She finds a spot with even better view down the river. Clouds float from the bottom up around us, open and close views of strangely shaped rocks, valleys and maybe a house or two in the distance. The view is different every second. Incredible. We spend rest of the day just watching the ever-changing scenery below.

At the end of the day we pitch a tent in the middle of the meadow and cook a dinner of bulgur, cheese, and garlic. We did not find water, but we don’t care. We have enough for today evening and if we don’t drink too much most of tommorrow.

Later we will see