The second day will start by crossing the valley, climbing up again and then traversing the opposite side of the valley through several of the pueblos blancos before dropping down into Rio Genal for night. Some 21 km and 720 meters of altitude gain. Link to map
Sun rises pretty late in Spain (after 8AM) and I do rise even later. The spot for night looks really nice in sunlight, little grassy saddle above Alpandeire, guarded by abandoned finca and shaded by oak tree.
After an oaotmeal breakfast I head to village for a coffee, open the “Spanish in 30 days”, then close it again and enjoy the coffee:).
Route to Atajate is very straghtforward, just go down the valley, cross river and climb up again. First on paved road, then 4WD track and finally footpath gets me to the riverbed of Genal. Wide, full of pebbles, but water is hiding below surface.
Tall poplar trees are slowly shedding their bright yellow leaves on the white pebbles, to the right orchard of tangerines is dark green with shining orange. Set on a little rise, nice finca overlooks the whole scenery.
Maybe its the place, maybe is the miserable sleep I had. I doze off happily under the poplar tree for a while.
And then its all up up up. And hot. The biggest refreshment is an encounter with a “fifty yet super fit” couple. The lady is Slovak, been living in Estepona for 11 years. Really loves and knows all the hills around and gives me ample tips where to go if I have time.
Ataje is alive with a “Most fiesta”, streets super clean, music full power in the tent on the main square. Even a free food “migas” is distributed, but the quee is endless…
Having filled myself with roasted chestnust I need to head fast for the next village it is already past 2pm and I made less than a third of the planned journey.
Seen from afar, the villages are at same altitude, but moving between them requires a lot of up and downs on often tiny paths. Again, the views on both sides of the ridge are amazing.
The valleys here are huge. Grey steep ridge towers on top, than a bit flatter section for roads/pastures/forest/villages and then again it steepens and the nearly vertical forest disappears into narrow valleys.
Nice views or not, I am really happy to reach the last village, drink and snack at t he spring.
Now, look from above for the last time and start descending into the valley.
The road is steep, dropping like a stone through a forest upon forest of corck oaks. Their black trunks stripped of bark up to where humans can reach are kind of depressing, there is no end to them.
Here, rio Genal is no longer hiding underground, but can be heard roaring from hundreds of meters above. When I get to the valley bottom, its getting dark, all is damp, there a traces of floods, plastics in the bushes, and couple of the sheds close to the road look really unkept and dilapidated. All together, its a bit overwhelming.
Its already dark when I make it to the campsite close to the bridge. Campsite is nearly empty, staff are doing cutlery and packing the kitchen.
Cook will they not, but milk coffee and postre they have. Also a hot shower, so I decide to stay for the night.