Day three is going south from the rio Genal to Casares, traversing the hill sides, dipping down to Genal tributaries, crossing them and hiking up again. Should be no villages on the way, but a lot of nature on this 22km day with 1400 meters of elevation gain. Link to map
The morning starts really pleasant. The camping site staff invite me into the main building. The fireplace is already going and the girls take turns heating themselves up by it. After a coffee and biscuits its time to start packing and hit the road. First half to an hour is done following rio Genal through lush vegetation on its banks. The path follows the river quite close, sometimes right on the bank, sometimes on a narrow path above it. And then the climbing starts. The path shoots straight up from rio Genal, nicely shaded, but I am sweating full power.
It does not tak more than hour until the route reaches the required altitude and levels out, following along the mountainside. After couple of turns Genalguacil appears, white houses covering the less inclined part of the mountain. Cant wait to get there. I am sweaty, thirsty and really want to stretch my legs.
Large terrace at the entrace to the village offers a premioum view of the valley bellow. The large fuente and bodega caters to a crossection of society.
There are a cuple of elderly, but agile, farmers in soiled clothes having a glass of red wine first, then beer.
Middle class senor in his 50s with a dog is having a coffee con leche. His sweater matches his coffee perfectly in colour.
Young family. Busy restraining their kid not to play in fuente.
Well dressed tourist couple who just got out of the car have a cold glass of white wine and a kiss. Nobody cares the couple is two ladies. Having refreshed myself with the good water I go and explore around a bit.
Genalguacil is full of water, there are four or five fuentes in the city. The citizens are very artistic; there are many statues, mozaics, and artistic artefacts all around the streets. Once i pass by the museum of contemporary culture at the edge of the village I am traversing the hillside again.
It looked much more level on the map, but its not. The path dips down to cross a stream, then climb up again. All in gentle shade of the chestnut trees which are turning yellow and bronze. Gradually, the human presence disappears and I find myself getting down to the riverbed of rio Amarchal.
The place is isolated and beautiful, I stop and chill for a while before realizing it will need to be forded.
The water is swift, but does not go above knees, good refreshment for the tired legs.
Then I start climbing up again, there are now more pine trees than the oaks. For the first time I see the strawberry bush. It’s vivid red and textured skin is inviting. The long haul up is temporarily rewarded by an amazing views from the top of the ridge. Then the rdge is crossed and the path descends to the other side.
Halfway through the descent, the 4WD track ends, then turns into stairs heading directly downn.
These Spaniards, they do not want to vaste time with doing zigzags, but what about my knees?
At the bottom flows Fuente Santo. More easy to ford, but a bit less beautiful than Amarchal. The biggest climb of the day comes right after. Up up up through endless corck tree plantation/forest.
Having climbed most of the elevation, the road goes roughly level/on the top of the mountains.
The clouds are on eye level now, once in a while some of them drag their fluffy bellies through the trees. There are a lot of flat spots suitable to camp. Now it is just about when to call it a day.
Tomorrow’s long stage to Jimena is on my mind. So I push further and further, eventually passing through the whole plantation. When the road is about to start descent into Casares, its time to camp. I am only 5km short of today’s goal.
Thats OK.
Oak tree close to dilapidated finca shelters me for the night.